RDPsmoker
OUT TO LUNCH..
- Jan 18, 2016
- #1
Ok so starting to save up some money to lay some insulation. Hoping to keep it cost effective. What type should I use? R rating? And any advise would be great. I was thinking of putting insulation and then putting clear plastic over the top. I'll throw some pictures up of the shop. Also live in Laramie Wyoming so my winter temperatures get real low.
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zstroken
For $$$ your name here
- Jan 18, 2016
- #2
I just blew in 45 bags of cellulose in my attic of my house, took about 2 hours. Wasn't bad, did it late fall so it wasn't crazy hot. Probably will blow in some more next year, need to go back up and look.
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RDPsmoker
OUT TO LUNCH..
- Jan 18, 2016
- #3
RDPsmoker
OUT TO LUNCH..
- Jan 18, 2016
- #4
RDPsmoker
OUT TO LUNCH..
- Jan 18, 2016
- #5
Sorry about the pictures loading them off my old phone and don't have photobucket on this one. So maybe someone could help me out :hehe:
zstroken
For $$$ your name here
- Jan 18, 2016
- #6
Be kind of hard to blow cellulose in there LOL. Looks like a typical installation would work, fiberglass bats on the side walls.
R
Ram12vcummins
New member
- Jan 18, 2016
- #7
How does that stove pipe not void your insurance?
INTHERED
Truck puller
- Jan 18, 2016
- #8
Spray foam is extremely nice but is expensive not high r value but has no lose since make building air tight most have r value 7 for every inch I have in my shop love it.We are also doing in nee hoise and garage
zstroken
For $$$ your name here
- Jan 18, 2016
- #9
Ram12vcummins said:
How does that stove pipe not void your insurance?
I think many times insurance companies don't know ask about them, etc.
Is that a pellet stove? What brand?
RDPsmoker
OUT TO LUNCH..
- Jan 18, 2016
- #10
The pellet stove is a St Croix Prescott series. I looked up how to pipe them and it had to be pellet stove pipe (very expensive) and just had to extend 6" past the outside wall and be 6" under the eve. Fire had to be 18" off the ground.
zstroken
For $$$ your name here
- Jan 18, 2016
- #11
RDPsmoker said:
The pellet stove is a St Croix Prescott series. I looked up how to pipe them and it had to be pellet stove pipe (very expensive) and just had to extend 6" past the outside wall and be 6" under the eve. Fire had to be 18" off the ground.
OK, I had a St Croix Olivia model. Thought the control panel looked familar!
Tate
What?
- Jan 19, 2016
- #12
Looks like bats in the walls, blow in up top. 2x4 construction? I used the pink Corning stuff in mine. My doors are R16 value, walls are R20 (2x6). I have about 24" deep in the attic of the blown in stuff. I keep my garage at 16.5C (~65F) year round. You go out on a cold humid night, and you can see on the exterior siding the frost where the insulation is, and the clear spots where the studs are.
ComnRailPwr
New member
- Jan 19, 2016
- #13
I just bought all the insulation for my new 40 X 72 shop. I am using 160 bags of cellulose to blow in the attic and batt Rolls for the walls. I'll have around $2k in the whole shebang and be R19 on walls and R35-R38 ceiling.
97crewcab
Wrong.
- Jan 19, 2016
- #14
What about dense pack cellulose in the walls?
4x4dually
Moderator
- Jan 19, 2016
- #15
If I were up there where it is that cold, I would spray foam it. Just save up longer. You won't regret it. Have someone spray foam it and then shave the walls flush. Cover with some OSB so you can screw crap to it and go. You won't be warmer.
Cheaper would be to put batting in it, but I would advise to cover that with OSB as well. Batting is great, but not left in the open, Air goes right around it. Deck the ceiling and blow it full of crap.
If there is one thing I've learned, even in OK, don't cheap out on insulation.
$.02
zstroken
For $$$ your name here
- Jan 19, 2016
- #16
What about the glued cellulose? Basically cellulose mixed with glue that the spray in.
I haven't followed spray foam insulation recently, one of the things that I had read early on was that folks were having trouble with condensation on the spray foam. Not sure if that has since been resolved.
zstroken
For $$$ your name here
- Jan 19, 2016
- #17
4x4dually said:
If I were up there where it is that cold, I would spray foam it. Just save up longer. You won't regret it. Have someone spray foam it and then shave the walls flush. Cover with some OSB so you can screw crap to it and go. You won't be warmer.
Cheaper would be to put batting in it, but I would advise to cover that with OSB as well. Batting is great, but not left in the open, Air goes right around it. Deck the ceiling and blow it full of crap.
If there is one thing I've learned, even in OK, don't cheap out on insulation.
$.02
If I lived in some hot box like OK, I would be using spray foam to stay cool! LOL
4x4dually
Moderator
- Jan 19, 2016
- #18
zstroken said:
I haven't followed spray foam insulation recently, one of the things that I had read early on was that folks were having trouble with condensation on the spray foam. Not sure if that has since been resolved.
If you cover it on the walls, and have the ceiling decked where the warm air doesn't reach the foam, it can't condensate....or at least, that is my estimated guestimate.
4x4dually
Moderator
- Jan 19, 2016
- #19
zstroken said:
If I lived in some hot box like OK, I would be using spray foam to stay cool! LOL
Exaclty. Temps can be 0F to 112F. It's a double edged sword. This is why I have learned to not skimp on insulation.
zstroken
For $$$ your name here
- Jan 19, 2016
- #20
4x4dually said:
If you cover it on the walls, and have the ceiling decked where the warm air doesn't reach the foam, it can't condensate....or at least, that is my estimated guestimate.
What is the point then? LOL
I think we will be building a garage in the near future and I want to be able to heat it with a candle.
I have thought about foam 1"foam on the outside, followed by bat insulation in a 2x4 wall.
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